How I Set Up the Fire Door Check Template with Customers in Pilla

Understanding What's Required of You

Fire doors are passive fire protection. They contain fire and smoke in compartments, buying time for evacuation and limiting damage to the building. But a fire door only works if every part of the assembly is intact: the leaf, the frame, the closer, the seals, the hinges, and the hardware. A problem with any single component can compromise the whole thing.

There are two types of seal doing different jobs. Intumescent seals sit in a groove around the door edges and expand when exposed to heat, filling the gaps between door and frame to block flames. Smoke seals, usually brush or rubber strips fitted alongside or combined with the intumescent seal, block smoke from passing through before the fire even reaches the door. Smoke kills more people in fires than flames do, so the smoke seal matters just as much.

The legal basis in England and Wales is the Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005. It requires the responsible person to ensure fire safety equipment, including fire doors, is maintained in efficient working order. Following the Grenfell Tower tragedy, fire door inspection has received increased regulatory attention, and enforcement officers are paying closer attention to maintenance records. Building insurance policies typically require evidence that fire doors are maintained, and claims following fires can be rejected if they weren't.

Fire doors are rated by the time they resist fire: FD30 gives you 30 minutes, FD60 gives you 60. The "S" suffix (FD30S, FD60S) means the door is smoke-rated too. Most commercial premises use FD30 for internal partitions and FD60 for stairwells, kitchens, and plant rooms. The rating only holds if the door is installed and maintained as a complete assembly. Swap in non-compatible hinges or fit an unauthorised letterbox, and the rating is void.

When I walk a building with a client, the most common failures I find are doors wedged open with extinguishers, seals painted over during decoration, and closers that have been deliberately weakened because staff find the doors too heavy. These are not minor issues. A propped-open fire door provides no protection at all. It's a hole in your compartmentation.

Setting It Up as a Work Activity

I've built a fire door check template in Pilla covering door location, a full component-by-component inspection checklist, pass/fail recording, and notes for issues found. It gives you a structured starting point, but you should edit it to reflect your own building.

Set this up as a recurring work activity and assign it to the person responsible for monthly fire safety checks. Tag it with "Health and Safety Checks" so it sits alongside your other inspections. I'd recommend combining fire door checks with your other monthly fire safety work (emergency lighting, extinguishers, escape routes) so it becomes part of a single routine.

The template is designed to be edited, not just filed. If your building has FD60 doors in specific locations, note that. If you use a door numbering system, reference it. The fire authority wants to see that your checks reflect your building, not that you've copied a generic form.

1. Fire door location

Record which fire door you are inspecting. This creates accountability and ensures no doors are missed.

Why it matters:

Buildings often have dozens of fire doors. Recording the location ensures systematic coverage and creates a maintenance history for each door. If problems recur with a specific door, the location record helps identify patterns.

What good answers look like:

• "Kitchen to corridor, FD30S"
• "Stairwell B, Level 2"
• "Office partition door, Room 12"
• "Plant room entrance"
• "FD-01" (if using a numbering system)

How to answer this for yourself:

Use consistent identification that allows anyone to locate the specific door:

• Location descriptions such as "Kitchen to corridor" are clearer than "kitchen door"
• Numbering systems like FD-01, FD-02, matching a site plan
• Reference points such as "Next to Room 12" or "opposite lifts"
• Fire rating if known, for example FD30 or FD60

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them):

• "Fire door" does not tell anyone which one. Be specific
• "The back door" may not be clear to someone unfamiliar with your building
• Inconsistent naming causes confusion. Use the same name each month

Best practices to follow:

• Create a numbered schedule of all fire doors
• Walk a logical route to check them all
• Mark fire doors on your floor plan for reference
• Update the schedule when doors are added, removed, or modified

2. Fire door inspection

This is the systematic check of all components that make the fire door function correctly.

Why it matters:

Fire doors are assemblies. The door leaf, frame, seals, closer, hinges, and hardware all work together. A problem with any component can compromise the whole assembly. This checklist ensures you examine every critical element.

What good answers look like:

Every item should be checked and ticked if satisfactory. An item you cannot tick identifies a problem that needs attention.

How to answer this for yourself:

Work through each item methodically:

Door closes fully into frame

Open the door fully, then let go. It should close completely on its own, with the latch engaging in the frame.

Why this matters: A fire door that does not close fully is not a fire door. Any gap allows smoke and eventually fire to pass through.

What to look for: Does the door close all the way without assistance? Does the latch click into the keep? Is there any gap visible between the door and frame when closed?

Common issues: Swollen door sticking on frame. Dropped door catching on floor. Weak closer not pulling door fully shut. Latch not aligned with keep. Obstruction preventing full closure.

Self-closer operates correctly

The door closer (usually mounted at the top of the door) should pull the door closed from any open position at a controlled speed.

Why this matters: Self-closing is fundamental to fire door function. In a fire, there will be no one to close the door manually. The closer must work automatically.

What to look for:

• Open the door to various positions (45 degrees, 90 degrees, fully open) and release
• Door should close smoothly from each position
• Closing speed should be controlled, not slamming
• Final latch action should pull the door firmly into the frame

Common issues: Closer arm detached from door or frame. Closer mechanism worn out and weak. Oil leaked from hydraulic closer. Closing speed incorrectly adjusted (too fast or too slow). Closer mounting screws loose.

Intumescent seals intact around edges

Intumescent seals are strips fitted around the door edges (usually in a groove). They expand massively when heated, sealing gaps between door and frame.

Why this matters: Even a well-fitting door has small gaps around its edges. In a fire, these gaps would allow flames through. Intumescent seals expand to fill these gaps when exposed to heat.

What to look for:

• Seals should be present around all edges (both sides and top)
• Seals should be continuous, not broken or missing sections
• Seals should not be painted over (paint can prevent proper expansion)
• Seals should not be pulling out of their grooves

Common issues: Sections of seal missing. Seal painted over during decoration. Seal damaged by impact. Seal pulling out of groove. Wrong type of seal fitted.

Smoke seals in good condition

Smoke seals (often combined with intumescent seals as "combined seals") provide a brush or rubber seal that blocks smoke even before the fire reaches the door.

Why this matters: Smoke spreads faster than fire and is often more deadly. Smoke seals prevent smoke passing around the door edges in the early stages of a fire.

What to look for:

• Brush or rubber seal strips present around door edges
• Seals making contact with frame when door is closed
• No gaps, damage, or missing sections
• Seals clean and not matted or compressed flat

Common issues: Brush pile matted down and no longer making contact. Rubber seals perished or torn. Seals missing completely. Accumulated dirt preventing proper seal.

No gaps around frame edges

When the door is closed, there should be minimal gap between the door and frame, typically no more than 3mm.

Why this matters: Gaps allow smoke and fire to pass. Even small gaps significantly reduce the door's fire rating.

What to look for:

• With door closed, examine the gap around all edges
• Gap should be consistent and no more than about 3mm
• No light visible through gaps (especially at corners)
• Bottom gap appropriate (may be larger if undercut for ventilation, but check if smoke seal or drop seal is fitted)

Common issues: Door warped creating uneven gaps. Frame damaged or out of square. Hinges worn allowing door to drop. Door swollen in humid conditions (may be too tight rather than too loose).

Door not wedged or propped open

Fire doors must be able to close freely. Wedges, bins, extinguishers, or any other items used to hold doors open defeat the door's purpose.

Why this matters: A propped-open fire door provides no fire or smoke protection whatsoever. In a fire, it becomes a hole in your compartmentation.

What to look for:

• No wedges under the door
• No objects placed to hold the door open
• No rope, hook, or improvised hold-open device
• If the door has an approved hold-open device, it should be linked to the fire alarm

Common issues: Wedges used for convenience. Fire extinguishers placed in doorways. Bins or furniture used to prop doors. Closers deliberately weakened so doors stay open.

Note: If staff routinely prop doors open, this indicates a need for proper hold-open devices linked to the fire alarm. These devices release the door automatically when the alarm activates.

Hinges secure and not damaged

Fire door hinges must be fire-rated (typically steel, not aluminium or nylon) and securely fixed.

Why this matters: Hinges bear the weight of heavy fire doors. If hinges fail, the door cannot close properly. In a fire, weakened hinges could allow the door to collapse.

What to look for:

• All hinge screws present and tight
• Hinges not bent or damaged
• No excessive wear (door should not sag on hinges)
• Correct number of hinges fitted (typically three for fire doors)

Common issues: Screws loose or missing. Hinges bent from impact. Hinge pins worn allowing sagging. Wrong type of hinges fitted (non-fire-rated).

Fire door signage visible

Fire doors should be clearly signed, typically with a "Fire Door Keep Shut" sign on both faces.

Why this matters: Signage reminds occupants that the door must not be propped open and should be kept closed. It also helps identify fire doors during emergencies.

What to look for:

• Sign present on both sides of door
• Sign text legible
• Sign securely fixed (not hanging loose or missing)

Common issues: Signs fallen off and not replaced. Signs obscured by notices or posters. Signs faded or damaged. Wrong signage ("Fire Exit" instead of "Fire Door Keep Shut").

No holes or damage to door leaf

The door leaf itself must be intact with no penetrations or damage.

Why this matters: Fire doors are tested as complete assemblies. Any penetration of the door leaf, whether cable holes, letterboxes, or impact damage, compromises the fire rating.

What to look for:

• No holes drilled through the door
• No damage from impacts
• No cracks or splits in the door material
• No unauthorised modifications

Common issues: Holes drilled for cables. Damage from trolleys or equipment. Unauthorised letterbox or cat flap fitted. Kick plates installed incorrectly (penetrating seals).

Note: Any modification to a fire door requires careful consideration. Items like letterboxes must be fire-rated and properly fitted to maintain the door's rating.

Glazing (if any) intact and correctly rated

If the fire door has glass panels, these must be fire-rated glass properly fitted.

Why this matters: Standard glass shatters when heated. Fire-rated glass maintains integrity in fire, maintaining the door's protection.

What to look for:

• Glass intact, no cracks or damage
• Glazing beads secure
• Fire-rated glass marking visible (usually etched or printed on glass)
• No signs of failed seals around glazing

Common issues: Cracked glass not replaced. Fire-rated glass replaced with standard glass after breakage. Glazing beads loose or missing. Seals around glazing damaged.

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them):

• Only checking from one side. Problems can be visible on one face but not the other
• Not physically operating the door. You must open and release it to test the closer
• Assuming the closer is the only issue. All components matter
• Missing doors in less-visited areas. Check every fire door, including storerooms and plant areas

Best practices to follow:

• Check each door from both sides
• Physically operate the door, do not just look at it
• Run your hand around the seals to feel for gaps or damage
• Look at the door closed and open
• Check the floor immediately in front of the door for obstructions

3. Inspection result

Based on your inspection, record whether the fire door passes or fails.

Why it matters:

This creates a clear record of each door's status. A pass confirms the door is providing protection. A fail triggers immediate action to restore protection.

What good answers look like:

• Pass. All checklist items satisfactory. Door closes fully, seals intact, no damage.
• Fail, issue found. One or more problems identified that need attention.

How to answer this for yourself:

Fire doors are critical life safety equipment. If you have any doubt about the door's ability to contain fire and smoke, record it as a fail.

What triggers a fail:

• Door does not close fully on its own
• Self-closer not working correctly
• Seals missing, damaged, or painted over
• Door propped open (record the fail even if you remove the wedge)
• Any holes or damage to door leaf
• Cracked or non-fire-rated glazing
• Loose or damaged hinges

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them):

• Passing a door that "nearly" closes. Nearly is not good enough
• Ignoring minor seal damage. Fire does not ignore minor damage
• Passing propped doors after removing wedge. Record the fail to create a record

Best practices to follow:

• When in doubt, fail. It is better to investigate than to assume
• Record the specific reason for failure in notes
• Treat recurring fails seriously, there may be an underlying cause
• Follow up on every fail until resolved

4. Notes

Record details of any issues found, actions taken, or observations.

Why it matters:

Notes capture the detail that a pass/fail result cannot. They explain what exactly was wrong, what was done about it, and what follow-up is needed.

What good answers look like:

For passing doors:

• "All satisfactory" or blank is fine if everything passed

For issues found:

• "Self-closer not pulling door fully shut. Door stops 2cm from frame. Closer arm may need adjusting. Reported to maintenance."
• "Section of intumescent seal missing from hinge side, approximately 15cm length. Will need replacement by fire door specialist."
• "Found door wedged open with fire extinguisher. Removed wedge, spoke with staff about fire door requirements. Consider hold-open device if door needs to be open during service."
• "Glazing cracked. Appears to be impact damage. Door needs immediate attention, glazing must be replaced with fire-rated glass."

How to answer this for yourself:

Record:

• Exactly what the problem is (specific and detailed)
• What action you took (removed wedge, reported to maintenance, etc.)
• What action is still needed (replacement parts, professional repair, etc.)
• When follow-up is expected

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them):

• "Door not closing properly" does not say why. Where is it catching? What is the closer doing?
• Not recording action taken. Note what you did, not just what you saw
• Vague descriptions. Be specific enough that someone else could understand the issue

Best practices to follow:

• Include the location of damage or problems (e.g., "hinge side" or "top corner")
• Record who you reported the issue to
• Include expected resolution timeframe if known
• Reference previous notes if this is a recurring issue

Automate the Follow-Up with Poppi

Writing the check is one thing. Making sure it actually gets done each month is another. Poppi can handle the chasing so you don't have to.

If you set the work activity to recur monthly, Poppi will track whether it's been completed and who did it. You can set up automations to chase the person responsible when the check is overdue, notify managers when a door fails inspection, and get a regular report showing which doors have recurring issues.

Here are three automations I'd set up for any recurring check: